The Launch - Old Forge, NY

Day 1 - May 31, 2009

Bob paddled with me today. Heavy western winds were causing two foot surf at our stern right from the start. Whitecaps were everywhere. It was hard to control my loaded kayak. Bob seemed to be able to move faster. I wasn’t surprised since he had a longer boat and it was empty. It was cold and we encountered three foot waves entering Inlet. We stopped for some pizza and hot coffee and received a weather update online in a local bar. The first carry was cold and wet. Sixth and Seventh Lakes were calm. I camped alone in a designated campsite on the shore of Eighth Lake with a beautiful sunset.

DESIGNATED CAMPSITE

Day 2 - June 1, 2009

What a beautiful sunrise. I crossed Eighth Lake this morning. The portage was a semi-hard carry in the beginning and eased up afterwards. I crossed the road to the put-in at the end of a wooden walkway to a new dock. The stream and surrounding vegetation reminded me of the cedar streams in the Pinelands of South Jersey where I currently reside. The weather was sunny as I entered Raquette Lake but eventually it got cloudy and blustery as the day wore on. I met up with the team at the lake landing prior to the portage around the falls. We played at Buttermilk Falls for a while taking numerous pictures. I portaged to the lean-tos downstream of Buttermilk and camped under roof for the night.

DESIGNATED CAMPSITE

Day 3 - June 2, 2009

It was an obvious long morning paddle on Long Lake. It seemed like it took forever! I missed the team at the bridge because I left earlier than they had suspected and because I was moving at speed. In order to break down the lake into manageable pieces, I picked points on the map and matched them up with my view ahead. I would calculate how long it would take to reach a point. This helped to make the lake section of the paddle more relaxing. Views of Seymour, Seward, Donaldson and Emmons were spectacular. The perspective from the lake was unique. They are on my radar for a future hike.

What a great feeling when you finally see the end of the lake. The Raquette River was very relaxing until I had to take out above Raquette Falls. What a difficult carry. I had to portage my gear in two trips and then carry the kayak on my back because the trail was too rocky for wheels. The total distance I portaged was 6.5 miles (it was 1.3 miles one way). I skipped Mother Johnson’s lean-to. Too bad – it had a split firewood pile in the lean-to. I guess it was a reward for completing the carry. But there was still plenty of daylight and I was feeling strong so I made a beeline for Sandy Creek. I camped at a beautiful clearing at a point only to realize later that I should have camped at a site next door. But it was late and I had already dumped my gear and put up my tent. I made an effort to be gentle to the flora. I suggest a more obvious notice from the water would benefit all in the future.

NON-DESIGNATED CAMPSITE (Designated campsite next door)

Day 4 - June 3, 2009

I misread the map. I found an old bridge on the stream that I mistook for a bridge on the map. I ended up paddling up Ampersand Creek for one hour climbing over debris similar to that encountered on my Jersey Pinelands Kayakcross in 2007. Even though the obstacles I encountered seemed oddly difficult for an established water trail, I pushed on blindly. I finally gave in when I stubbornly realized I was traveling east and not north and that the mountains surrounding me did not match the terrain on the map if I were in the correct location. I turned around and finally found the correct bridge. Tricky swamp – I won’t let that happen again.

I portaged to Upper Saranac Lake and paddled the connector to the locks. I considered running the rapids to Middle Saranac Lake but the lockkeeper looked strangely familiar. So I turned back and yelled out “Is your name Margaret?” Indeed - it was Margaret Hawthorne who helped get me through the night after a horrible accident coming down the trail from Iroquois in 2006. It’s a small world isn’t it? Once again she helped me. I had a bad feeling about running my first set of rapids. Something drew me back to ask her what her name was. The rapids had a nasty massive rock at end requiring a sharp left turn to avoid. I ended up paddling through the lock and canal instead. I met the team after paddling under the Route 3 bridge and paddled to Saranac Lake with Bob. We had a great dinner in town that night and I treated myself to a night in the Hotel Saranac. My kayak had a room all to itself as well!

HOTEL

Day 5 - June 4, 2009

This morning a local guided me to the put-in on the Saranac River in town. Before departing, I stopped into the St. Regis Canoe Outfitters shop for some last minute advice about the rapids and falls downstream. I spoke with a young man at the shop and he provided me with additional information for running the Saranac River. It was more detailed information than was available on the NFCT map and corrected some errors as well. The information also identified a stealth campsite. I ran my first set of rapids when I reached the top of Permanent Rapids. The fellow at the shop had said that the water was still at Spring levels and that I should add a ½ Class to the designation on the map. I did great until I reached the end where I flipped on the last set of rocks. I was embarrassed but uninjured. However, I did do a perfect wet exit and held onto my paddle. All my gear stayed dry. I have no video of these rapids since I was fearful of damaging my camera and tripod if I flipped. I had decided to feel my kayak out before attempting to run some rapids while filming. My camera gear cost me $550 and I wasn’t about to trash it in the first week. Besides, I brought no helmet. I had long ago decided that bringing a helmet might tempt me to take unnecessary risks. Besides, I hadn’t noticed any mention of the word “helmet” when reading the Blogs of other previous paddlers (all canoeists).

I crossed Union Lake and Franklin Lake in a flash. At the Hydro I met Peter. He approached me and mentioned a canoe tandem he had helped last year. Her name was Eileen McCue and his was William Hafford – or as Peter called him, “Fancy Pants”. I recall reading a Blog about them on the NFCT web site. Peter wanted me to go back and drink beer at his campsite and then shuttle me to Plattsburg. No Thanks. I told him my plan was to do the entire NFCT under my own power while carrying all of my own food and gear. I bid farewell and proceeded to run two Class II+ rapids and bugged out before the Class III+ and Class IV+ stuff further downstream below Silver Lake Road. I camped at the stealth camp identified on the information provided by the St. Regis Canoe Outfitters. PS – a very big beaver was not happy that I entered his pond just above the take-out.

LEGAL CAMPSITE

Day 6 - June 5, 2009

It was a difficult but short carry out to the road. However, from the road you would never find it. I had to carry my gear in two loads. My kayak needed to be carried a good distance before suitable terrain allowed me to strap on the wheels. This carry was not pleasant. Thank God it was short. I kept looking for a location to re-launch my kayak but there were never any obvious access points. Along the way I weaved around a road crew filling cracks with liquid rubber. I couldn’t put back into the water until I came to the bridge at Clayburg.

While re-launching I met some fly-fishermen. The Saranac River was a continuous set of sparkling rapids all the way to Baker’s Acres Campground. There were many fly-fishermen in the stream today and luckily the river was just deep enough to run the rapids.

Somehow I missed the sign for the takeout above Class III+ Separator Rapids. I had been advised to carry these rapids by Darrin Kimbler of the NFCT. I didn’t realize my mistake until it was too late. I was diving into them. Somehow I survived the upper rapids and eddied out to regain my composure. Now I had no choice. It would either be a disaster or I would take a big step forward in confidence. I ended up running them and scared the hell out of myself. But I got it all on video!

Later downstream I met up with the team again for a short stop and then continued to the takeout at Cadyville Dam. I was disappointed with the steepness and rocky texture of the takeout. In retrospect, it would have been simpler to takeout at Cadyville Beach. But then I wouldn’t have met Frank Zappala who lived across the street from Cadyville Dam. He invited me to have dinner and a few beers. I had steak for dinner that night! We talked a few hours. Frank is a recently divorced Real Estate Attorney. We discussed the takeout and he mentioned that his son was looking for an Eagle Scout project. I promised I would hook him up with the NFCT in an effort to improve the takeout and possibly build a lean-to. Hopefully Kate Williams and company will contact him. I spent the night indoors. Thanks Frank. You’re a good guy.

HOUSE GUEST

Day 7 - June 6, 2009

Lots of terrible carries. Directions to the last Plattsburg carry was somewhat confusing. In fact, all three of the Plattsburg carries were difficult to locate. To date, many of the carries had no signs and it was critical that you pay attention to locate them on your own. My guess is that the trail is still too new. Then again, it is more fun when you have to locate the takeout or put-in. It’s like a game. Regardless, today on the water, aside from the carries, it was a never ending Class II paddle. Fun.

Today was very windy in the afternoon. Once I reached Lake Champlain I realized that crossing to South Hero Island might be too risky. I decided to cross Cumberland Bay at a midway point and hug the shoreline. From there I would reconsider my options. I ate two lunches at the Plattsburg marina and then headed out across the Bay with high winds and whitecaps to my back. I was shaking by the time I reached the shoreline. Was I ever scared. I paddled very little and kept trying to keep the stern directly into the wind and waves. I turned up the coast and rounded the point. The water turned to glass once I was out of the wind (protected by high bluffs). The ferry had just pulled in and was unloading cars. I hailed the ferry so the captain knew I was paddling behind him. I didn’t want to get run over after all I had been through.

I considered trying to paddle across but decided it would be foolish. I had already taken a foolish chance and had gotten lucky. It was late so I decided to continue paddling north along the western side of Lake Champlain – all the time not knowing where I would spend the night. I cut corners as much as possible to save time. By 7:58 pm I finally reached a marina on the northwestern shore. After explaining my trip and quandary to the authorities, I managed to get permission to camp at the marina that night. Once again I lucked out. I paddled 13 hours today. Picnickers gave me beer and chips. Thanks.

NON-DESIGNATED CAMPSITE (permission granted)

Day 8 - June 7,2009

The morning brought calm waters and no wind as so often occurs that time of day so I paddled around Rocky Point and up to Cloak Island before crossing Lake Champlain to Point of the Tongue. The day was uneventful. I met the team at the last bridge and had lunch with them. I departed for the Missiquoi as the weather turned windy and rainy. The surf kicked up again into whitecaps. Was I ever happy to finally enter the river and leave Lake Champlain behind. I made it to Swanton late in the day. Takeout on river right downstream from the designated takeout. I found a Laundromat and met the owners. ??? (I need your name) was a 3-time former State Senator. He offered to store my kayak and give me a lift to a motel. I graciously declined since as I had mentioned previously, I had promised to take no shuttles. I ate pizza at Mike’s next door. We talked about the area. He was involved in the planning for the NFCT in Swanton and also had a large involvement in the local rail trails. I stayed at the expensive Swanton Motel for the night.

MOTEL

Day 9 - June 8, 2009

The best time to thru-paddle the NFCT is in the Spring or early Summer if you want to ensure enough water on many of the streams and rivers. However, this is also the time of the year for fertilizing fields. The Missiquoi at this time of year could be called the mess-a-quoi. The smell of cow manure on the farmers’ fields is everywhere.

I tried to paddle and line my kayak up Abbey Rapids today but it was too difficult. I couldn’t locate the campsite on river right. I had already fallen into the river twice trying to get upstream. I was cold and wet. It was getting late and the weather was looking questionable. So I decided to paddle back downstream to the Route 105 bridge where I hoped I could find a legal takeout.

As luck would have it once again, I noticed a sign for a store just upstream from the bridge. I had missed it on the way upstream earlier since it was tucked away tight to the left uphill and close to the road. It promised all that I needed. All I had to do was secure permission to camp in their grassy back yard. Good people at Devyn’s. After pitching my tent, it started to rain. But I was dry and happy. I had a hot dinner and ice-cream. I was so lucky. It was very late and raining but the cheesesteak was great.

BACKYARD

Day 10 - June 9, 2009

I had a big breakfast inside the store and hung out until the rain stopped at 12:30 pm. I started my carry up the rail trail to bypass Abbey Rapids. Before long, I met up with the team at the next possible put-in near a cemetery. I paddled to the end of the day finally reaching Enosburg Falls. I debated whether to camp or find a place in town. Regardless, I was going to find a place to eat in town. As I was debating my options, the team appeared and mentioned that some friends had shown up to paddle with me the next few days. So I decided to return with them to their campground and surprise my friends Juan and Steve. Bob barbequed chicken & burgers. What a treat. The food was naturally great as was the beer and time spent with good friends. I was able to get a hot shower tonight.

TRAILER

Day 11 - June 10, 2009

Another day of paddling upstream – intermingled with carries around rapids. Today was the day I introduced myself to the cows. Cows are so curious – especially if you moo them closer. They can also be scared very easily. Hopefully the videos did the scene justice. The whole cow scene was pretty hilarious.

By late in the day we ended up in the town of Richford, VT. The town has seen better days but the people were friendly and helpful. Bob, Steve and Juan left to go back to the campground. There was still time left on the clock so I proceeded upstream after talking to two locals for advice. However, the rapids proved to be too difficult to line late in the day and I opted to portage in an attempt to locate a place to camp. I ended up portaging two miles. Along the way a neighbor suggested a spot near the railroad that he surmised would not be on private land. And then out of nowhere as luck would have it again, I met a mute jogger running south on the road. She turned around and walked with me for a distance. She could read lips. She communicated that I could probably camp under the railroad trestle that night as she proceeded the veer off back home where the road splits. It was a great little spot in the ferns by the river – just big enough to fit a tent. However, later that night I was shocked by her husband looking for me with a flashlight! They were quiet people. He just wanted to make sure I had deleted a picture of his wife that I had taken without her permission. All ended well. Both were nice people. Needless to say I was scared as hell when I saw that flashlight and heard someone yell out “Michael.”

LEGAL CAMPSITE

Day 12 - June 11, 2009

Tough upstream paddling. Before I crossed the border into Canada I checked in with both customs agents. Once I was back in my kayak, I paddled under the bridge and out of the USA. The river became easier to paddle now and the smell of fertilizer finally dissipated. Eventually, I reached the campground where Bob, Sandy, Juan and Steve were staying. I had lunch with them (burgers & beer) and then continued into the quaint French town of Mansonville. What a cute little place. A hotel, a bar with hot food and a bakery for breakfast in the morning. As luck would have it, I also met a fellow and his girlfriend working on their B&B. They offered dinner and to also put me up for the night. I was about to accept the offer when my crew flashed through town looking for me. Regretfully, I never did stay at the B&B. Then again, my friends had come a long way to spend time with me. I flagged the crew down. I spent the night in the campground.

TRAILER

Day 13 - June 12, 2009

The Grand Portage was a 5.7 mile carry from the Missiquoi watershed to the Lake Memphremagog watershed. It also required an elevation gain and loss of approximately 700 feet. Due to the need to secure permission at the takeout from the North Branch of the Missiquoi, I decided to portage an additional 1.3 miles from Mansonville as well. The carry was hot & tough. As expected, my paddling/portaging partners for the day would be ahead of me since they were carrying very little extra gear. Juan never seems to wait when we hike. Today would be no different. Before long, he peeked back down the mountain and then blasted off. I never saw him again until I reached Lake Memphremagog. His boat was empty. Mine had 75 pounds of gear. Steve stayed with me.

Bob and Sandy dropped off Juan’s truck in Newport, VT. On the way back, they were stopped at the border and spent 90 minutes unloading the back of the truck for the customs agents. Bob had planned to paddle the lake with us but decided not to. He was concerned that the truck would be unnecessarily searched once or twice again if Sandy drove back to Newport to help with the kayak shuttling of 3 boats.

Juan, Steve and I paddled back to USA doing 12 miles in 3 hours (wind to our back). I checked in with customs over the video phone, said goodbye to Juan and Steve, and then continued up the Clyde River after taking the wrong way into the ponds. Although I fell in love with the accuracy, quality and ease of use of the NFCT maps, they did have a few errors. In this case the map indicated that a campground existed on Clyde Pond. This proved to not be the case. As the evening was nearing I once again got lucky and found a spot in a power line opening on the far side of Clyde Pond that would make due for the night.

LEGAL CAMPSITE

Day 14 - June 13, 2009

I finally found a McDonald’s! I had a double breakfast and bought a quarter pounder for later in day. I passed the “Doctors Inn”. It was both a B&B and Chiropractice. Hmmm? Good cell phone service along the road was a blessing so I made numerous calls to check on work as well as talk to my significant other - Marie.

Access to Salem Lake proved to be somewhat difficult as the area is mostly private land. However, at the advice of a friendly neighbor, I was guided to a put-in without concern. A little later on I had a great encounter with a pair of nesting loons on Pensioner Pond. At first I was surprised that they were letting me get so close to them. But eventually I spotted their nest and eggs. I tried not to disturb them but I knew I had to take some photos and a video. Both turned out spectacular. I ended the day hoping to find a place to camp near East Charleston.

TRAILER

Day 15 - June 14, 2009

I paddled into the “Fen” today. To my best knowledge, a Fen is a swamp with many waterways. I got quite lost trying to stay on the main course. In a fen, water seems to flow from many directions making navigation confusing – even with a map. After taking many wrong turns and retracing my path a number of times, I finally found what I thought was the exit from the Fen into the Upper Clyde River only to realize I was on a Clyde River tributary. At this point I decided to portage back to an area where I could re-access the Clyde upstream from the Fen. Five Mile Square Road access was the put-in I was looking for. But I decided to walk the next two miles into town at this point as I was unsure of how navigable the Clyde would be and concerned with getting lost once again. I wished I had paddled it now. Any connection to Boston’s Fenway Park?

I had lunch in the town of Island Pond. Afterwards, I paddled the Clyde River under the Clyde Hotel, paddled across Island Pond and did a long buggy portage to the Nulhegan watershed. The mosquitoes were horrible from Island Pond until I reached a breezy high point on the road just before the airport. I was becoming concerned with sleeping with the bugs until I stumbled upon an abandoned airport. The office was empty but the building was locked. The garage on the other hand was unlocked and was looking mighty tempting in lieu of the stormy weather in the distance. However, sleeping on the rocky garage floor was not inviting. Besides, although there were no signs, I would technically be trespassing. I’m not sure what I would have done if the storm hadn’t passed. I traveled a little further down the road and located a descent campsite at end of the airport runway on a sand mound surrounded by trees.

TRAILER

Day 16 - June 15, 2009

I put-in on Nulhegan Pond and paddled through the tube to the other side of the road. It was misting. Later in the morning it would be raining. The Upper Nulhegan reminded me of home in South Jersey’s Wharton State Forest. The stream is very narrow and tight and twisty. Some places required that I push my way through the vegetation. There were many beaver dams to cross as well. However, the dams are a blessing as they create pond water that is deep enough through which to paddle a boat. As I continued further downstream, additional feeder streams added to the flow and the Nulhegan got wider but not any deeper. Oh, by the way, it rained all day.

Finally I came upon the Middle Nulhegan where I knew to expect many Class III+ rapids and big boulders. It was still raining but it didn’t matter. However, this section was quite remote and no help could be expected if I got hurt. It was chilly and rainy and damp. I was nervous. But I was committed. I ran most of the rapids but decided to line my kayak on the right where the river split around a small island. I put back in just below the island and then proceeded to portage around the massive ledges. I paddled again until the river got too “boney”. Rather than put back in at the East Branch of the Nulhegan, I decided to carry a little further down Route 105. I was concerned with navigability. Eventually I spotted a put-in on the right just past a grassy back yard. Before long I met the confluence with the Connecticut River at Bloomfield. I had made it through unscathed. Luck was with me once again. Oh, by the way, it rained all day.

I saw a fisherman on the New Hampshire side of the river. We yelled a few words over the sound of the rain and rapids. But the river was flowing so fast that he was long gone back upstream in a flash. Finding a place to camp tonight would be wet but the map indicated a campsite at the Maine Central Railroad Trestle. It was very muddy at the shoreline and up off the bank. It didn’t look like much of a campsite. I didn’t find a privy either. So I decided to press on downstream. Oh, by the way, it rained all day.

With little time left to be picky I finally came upon Stratford-Maidstone Bridge. I tied-off under the bridge and climbed the boulders. There was just enough room to squeeze a tent in between the bridge foundation and the boulders. This would be home for the night.

By chance, the fisherman I had touched base with back upstream, showed up to do some last minute fishing. His name was “Big Sleeve Steve.” It had stopped raining. I heated up some water and made myself some freeze-dried dinner. Steve and I talked a bit while I ate dinner. The next morning he stopped by before I pushed off with some coffee and breakfast. He proved to be an interesting guy who was into fast cars and motorcycles.

LEGAL CAMPSITE

Day 17 - June 16, 2009

Paddling down the Connecticut was very quick. I’m guessing the current pushed me close to 6 MPH. The confluence with the Ammonoosuc to Groveton, NH was both welcomed and dreaded. Paddling back upstream for the next 24 miles would be no easy task. The going was slow but I eventually reached the takeout below town where I once again met up with the team. I continued into town and had lunch at the local pizza shop. There’s a Laundromat in town so don’t miss it. I decided to carry around all three dams and put in above Red Dam on river left. From here the Ammonoosuc was very difficult. The river flows swiftly. Paddling upstream was very strenuous. I was constantly in and out of my kayak – portaging some, lining some, slogging some. Paddling a river up a mountain is not fun. Paddling over the White Mountains of New Hampshire is not easy. It was a very tough day ending at the beautiful Stark B&B in Stark, NH.

TRAILER

Day 18 - June 17, 2009

It was another tough day on the Ammonoosuc, followed by tough portage over a mountain to the Androscoggin watershed. Although the Ammo is a series of pools from Stark to West Milan, the current is swift enough between pools to make upstream travel extremely strenuous. At times, walking the stream is your best bet. Luckily, it was June. Unfortunately, it had rained a lot. The rain makes for a navigable stream but also makes upstream travel tougher due to the increased flow. You can’t win unless you are traveling downstream. However, I seemed to have extra energy for some reason today. Although tough, the Ammonoosuc was very picturesque. I would love to paddle it downstream someday.

The takeout at West Milan is not very good. I’m not sure why you couldn’t paddle a little further upstream before taking out. Perhaps private property is the issue.

The portage was another issue. Although it looked long, hard and steep on the map, I found it to not be as tough as expected. Why, I don’t know. My shin was sore from whacking it up pretty bad a few days earlier so I was walking with a limp still. Maybe the endorphins kicked in. But I seemed to fly up this section smoothly. The downhill side was welcomed. I continued on to Pontook Dam.

TRAILER

Day 19 - June 18, 2009

Today was a rainy day paddling and portaging rapids up the Androscoggin. I seemed to have lost my energy today. I guess the past two days caught up with me. I started napping in my kayak paddling upstream. I was being lulled into daydreams. This was bad as I easily felt as though I could doze off, fall out and drown. I decided to carry around Thirteen Mile Woods due to the numerous rapids and had lunch and a nap at the Androscoggin Wayside Park. Once I got back on the river, I decided to quit in Errol as it was chilly and still raining. I almost camped in a Chamber of Commerce kiosk (lean-to) but probably would have opted to stay at the motel just up the road. As I was trying to decide what to do next, the team showed up by chance. I decided to spend the night with them back at their campground. However, before departing, I arranged to leave my boat across the road with the Northern Waters outfitters. It was good to spend the night with friends.

TRAILER

Day 20 - June 19, 2009

I awoke to a rainy day. I had been going for 19 straight days. I decided to take the day off. We went shopping in Errol at L.L. Cote. But it stopped raining and the skies started to clear. I became impatient. I needed to be back on the water. So I launched late in the day at 2:00 pm. The paddle to the carry for the Rapid River was uneventful other than a short wrong turn. The portage on the other hand was another story.

Once I reached the rapids, I noticed what appeared to be the takeout for the portage. However, there was no little yellow NFCT directional diamond on any tree indicating so. I decided to hike back to the camp to look for a marker or trail sign. All trails from the camp led to dead ends. There was going to be no easy way. The carry was indeed right along the river. It was muddy and rocky and impossible to wheel. I half drug, half pushed, half cursed my way – all the time thinking there had to be an easier way. It couldn’t be this bad, but oh, yes it was. Rocks, trees, mud holes, slopes, etc. After 3 weeks on the trail I no longer wanted to unload my kayak to lessen the weight unless it was absolutely necessary. I would just drag the boat and hope I didn’t wear or punch a hole in it. But I had to give in once again and unload.

When I first planned to paddle the NFCT, I figured the worst thing I would have to deal with would be the bugs since I would be paddling in prime bug season. And even though I knew I had a minimum of 54 miles of portages, I figured they would be a great diversion from paddling – especially after long hours on the water. Portaging would provide a respite and some rest for my paddling muscles. It didn’t turn out that way. By far the most difficult part about this voyage turned out to be the portaging. Portaging on roads or rail trails were difficult only due to steepness or distance compounded by the weight of the boat and gear. But many of the carries through the forest were extremely difficult due to unwheelable terrain. The Rapid River carry was no different until I finally merged onto an old double track jeep trail.

But I had started too late in the day. It was damp, buggy and difficult. I never had a chance to make it to the Middle Dam campsite. I finally spotted some high ground. It was a deer bed. I had to clear quite a bit of droppings before pitching my tent. And today I only spent 4 ½ hours on the trail.

LEGAL CAMPSITE

Day 21 - June 20, 2009

I found a Bohemian fly-fishing village on the carry this morning just 300 yards from where I camped last night! People. I actually encountered people living in a cabin. It was a cute older couple from Canada who owned the “Sugar Shack” and they were having coffee with a friend who lived further up the carry. I stopped in to say hello and they offered me a drink. As it turned out, I could have spent the night in a guest cabin. Some times you get lucky, sometimes you don’t.

Further down the carry I met others – a lady planting her summer garden, a fishing guide, and three fly-fishermen. The gardener lived in Forest Lodge. She offered me a copy of “We Took to the Woods” but I graciously declined. I didn’t want any more stuff to carry. The guide offered to let me use his shower and well. I filled up on fresh water and continued. Finally I reached the end of the Rapid River and spotted Lower Richardson Lake. I was ready to get back on the water and be finished with the bugs.

I was determined to make up for lost time today. There was little wind and I made great time - close to 4.5 MPH acrossthe lake even though it got quite foggy. I felt like a Viking paddling in a fiord and almost thought I heard trumpeting horns. Unfortunately, the surrounding and distant mountain peaks were familiar ones I had climbed previously but could not see.

The carry to Mooselookmeguntic Lake was short but not uneventful. The put-in was blocked by a cheapskate knucklehead trying to launch a large boat from his trailer. I watched in amusement as he buried his trailer and truck wheels in the mud - proceeding to trash the shoreline in the effort. He ended up needing a tow. I wish I had taken a video. It was classic Three Stooges stuff.

I think I traversed Mooselookmeguntic almost as quickly as Richardson, spotted the team on shoreline, and then made for the town of Oquossoc for some lunch. I still had a few hours left and although it was damp, I decided to paddle Rangeley Lake to Rangeley (8miles in under 2 hours) before calling it a day.

I met a local near the takeout and he let me leave my kayak and gear in his back yard for the night. What a great house he had on a beautiful location at the end of the lake.

TRAILER

Day 22- June 21, 2009

After leaving town in the wrong direction, I turned around sheepishly and headed north. But before leaving town I was flagged down by the proprietress of a new B&B. I thought she was interested in me. It turned out she only wanted to use me for some marketing photos.

As I left town I passed what looked like a new depot for the Border Patrol. I wondered if existed before 9/11. I continued my portage across to the Dead River watershed wondering whether or not there would still be enough water in mid-June to float my boat. I was guessing I’d be OK since it had rained so much recently. Along the carry I reached the highest point in Maine - at exactly 3 weeks into my trip. It seemed like a poignant moment.

When I first saw the South Dead River at the curve in the road at the bridge, I smiled. The water level still looked good. I was lucky once again. I launched with much anticipation. I was finally going downstream again! What a great little river. Pretty scenery and fun rapids. However, I decided to take out above Fansanger Falls as suggested – not knowing what “enough water” really meant. The takeout was once again terrible. I spent a lot of time diverting around Fansanger Falls. I’ll never know if I made the correct decision or what I missed.

The put-in below the falls led to some more difficult rapids. It got sunny and the water sparkled like diamonds. However, the water level made paddling somewhat gnarly and difficult. What I wouldn’t have given for 6 more inches.

The team would be up ahead. We had planned some action shots in the rapids. He managed to get a great picture. I paused for a few minutes, and then was gone.

The day took longer than I had expected. I spotted the team again on Kennebago Road Bridge. They left a message downstream that I might be spending the night at the Tranquility Lodge B&B. It started raining again. I had hoped to make it to Stratton by the end of the day but I decided it would be foolish and dangerous to push on. It was getting late and the toughest rapids were still ahead. I found myself a suitable dry and bug free location to camp for the evening and called it quits.

TRESPASSED CAMPSITE

Day 23 - June 22, 2009

I awoke to another damp dreary day. The largest rapids on the South Dead River lay ahead of me - exhilarating and tough Class II and Class III. It was a good thing I waited until morning as it started raining again. The rapids were long and very rocky. I was almost flipped two times after getting stuck in an undesirable lateral position. I handled the rapids with some fear and trepidation. Finally the river turned placid as it met the back waters of the lake ahead.

In the distance I spotted the Route 27 bridge. I tucked my kayak in against the concrete boat ramp hoping to keep it out of site from the road. I had planned to have breakfast at the B&B but no one was around. The owner had gone to the Post Office (note on the front door) but left the door unlocked. So I decided to push on instead. Lucky for me. As I walked back through the parking lot to the boat ramp I noticed two suspicious people in a truck casing my kayak. They seemed to speed away as soon as they saw me. Was I just paranoid? Hmmm?

I started out again to cross Flagstaff Lake. I had 20 miles to go if I could make it all the way to the dam today. However, there were strong north winds. Once I reached the northern shoreline below Jim Eaton Hill, I had some calmer waters as expected. But I knew what lay around the last point and the last 3 miles of lake.

Before I even reached the last set of rocks I could feel the wind and feel the chop. I decided to give it a shot. If it were too dangerous, I would just turn back and try to find a location to camp on the north shore. But once into the wind and surf it became apparent that turning back would risk being swamped! I was afraid to turn my broadside into the wind and waves. I had no choice now but to paddle two miles of open water into a 25 MPH headwind and 2 ½ foot waves and whitecaps. This was the scariest part of my trip to date. I was truly thinking I was going to drown today but the kayak was stable as long as I kept her heading directly into the wind and waves. The nose dove underwater way too often. The stern must have been awash constantly. However, I couldn’t turned around to look.

I finally reached the other side of the bay and its protected waters. Damn that was close. And as I cruised the shoreline looking for a suitable campsite, a beaver was either applauding my effort or trying to chase me away. Since I couldn’t find a suitable campsite, I decided it was the latter and decided to try to make it to the dam near where I knew I could locate a designated camping area. Although it was still choppy and windy around the bend, it wasn’t as bad since the dam was less than a mile ahead and the lake had less surface area to disturb.

I found a fine campsite by a stream for the night.

DESIGNATED CAMPSITE

Day 24 – June 23, 2009

I debated whether to launch my kayak down Black Brook into the Dead River but decided against it and proceeded to the rocky put-in just below some nice looking rapids below Long Falls. There were plenty of fly-fisherman already in the water.

The Dead River is lazy upstream of the next set of falls - Grand Falls. The flow seemed normal and all was quiet until a flurry of activity in the middle of the river got my attention. By the time I refocused my eyes, something had already scurried into the forest river right but river left had a surprise still waiting. Standing up on the bank looking upstream at me stared the eyes of a coyote. Evidently, I had disturbed them as they were trying to swim across the river. You just never know. And then he turned and slipped back into the forest and all was quiet once again. Was it just a dream I thought?

Soon I was listening for the falls. I heard the din in the distance. I debated which portage to use and decided to be safe. The map describes an old dam and rapids. What was the point in going further downstream? As it turned out, I made a big mistake. Descriptions of the two carries do not go into any details. But as I would later discover, the second carry appeared to be a well worn path that I’m guessing would have been the smarter move. The first carry was very very difficult. I had to unload the kayak. I don’t remember how many times. Rocks, trees, logs, mud, bugs… It took me so much time to do the carry around the 30 foot drop called “Grand Falls” that I never even considered walking back to the ledge to view it from above. I wish now that I had but I was frustrated.

I met Sandy below the falls. She and Bob had driven the long road back in to get some classic shots. I put into the calm of the Dead below the falls and proceeded back upstream to get a close up view from below. Needless to say they were spectacular – so much so that I spent an hour paddling in and out of the flotsam and jetsam – daring to get close enough to get soaked by the spray and tempting the falls to suck me under. Bob got his shots and videos. However, I wish now we had some shots of me paddling from above.

Spencer Stream and Little Spencer Stream. I had dreaded this section for awhile. Although it appeared that there may be ways to carry around these two streams, I wasn’t too confident. At this point I was deep into the forest and needed to paddle upstream! I gave it a half-hearted try but quickly decided to take a shot at bypassing as much as possible by trying to follow some old logging roads on the map. The road died at Spencer Stream near it’s confluence with Little Spencer. There was no bridge to the other side. I decided the roads were too old to trust and surrendered to the water. I spent nearly 4 hours paddling, slipping, wading, lining, cursing my way upstream. I called it quits early since I found a great natural campsite and was concerned I may not find any better. Today was the first time I used my compass. I just wanted to make sure I didn’t take the wrong stream. You see, when you travel upstream, the river spreads into multiple fingers just like a tree’s branches multiply exponentially upward and outward. You must be extra careful to stay on course. I even used a picture on one of my maps to verify my position. Tomorrow will not be any easier I’m sure.

LEGAL CAMPSITE

Day 25 - June 24, 2009

I continued up Little Spencer Stream today - lots of lining and little paddling in the short intermittent pools. Progress was painfully slow but it was a beautiful sunny day. I kept thinking that maybe I had given up too soon on the logging roads. But then this section is a “right of passage”. To me it proved to be the most difficult section on the trail to date. But at the same time it was extremely beautiful. However, the remoteness made me worry, made me be extra careful. Getting hurt on Little Spencer stream could prove fatal.

Stream, rapid, current, slime, pool, pond, branches, shins. After 4 hours of clamoring I finally saw the dam (rebuilt). The setting from Upper Deadwater Pond is absolutely breathtaking. On the downside, the dam proved to be an almost impossible portage. I would have to unload my kayak again.

I scouted the area near a landing that looked promising and improbable at the same time. However, once I reached a view of Spencer Lake, I noticed a boat landing nearby on the left. There was a trail leading from the dam to the landing and also apparently back downstream. However, my eye caught a promising swale. I found a secret portage that would work. I then spotted what also looked like another rowboat off to the right in Upper Deadwater. However, for some reason, I decided not to check it out. I guess I wanted to use my secret portal instead. I guess I wanted to make amends for portaging around the first mile of Spencer Stream. I’m convinced now that there was an easy way around the dam. But the maps made no mention of it. I had become accustomed to that. Part of this adventure is exploring and dissecting on your own. What fun would it be if you knew all the answers. That’s why I didn’t want a GPS as well. The maps would be my only guide. I even avoided using Google Earth in my planning.

I finally put back in 1 ½ hours later after the very short and tough portage. Paddling again at last. I proceeded up Spencer Lake and before long reached the upper section where I spotted a campsite on the left. Fish Pond appears larger on the map than in reality. Then I spotted my first moose of the trip. I drifted closer. They appeared uninterested.

I had to look close to finally located the channel flowing through the reeds into Spencer Lake. In the process I spotted another nesting loon. She didn’t budge. The swampy channel closed in quickly around me. I was beginning to wonder whether I would be able to get through. Maybe I should have taken out at the campsite. I crossed 3 beaver dams as I paddled on.

Then a bend, a bridge, two fishermen. They gave me 2 sodas and I was on my way. I had decided to portage from here to Spencer Rips at the advice of Darrin once again. I suspect it was good advice.

From the bridge it ended up being a 5 mile carry – all of it uphill! All in the sun and humidity. Bugs everywhere. When I reached the Moose River, I was beat. I think it took me 15 hours to travel the 19 miles from Grand Falls to the Moose River - by far the toughest section on the NFCT to date.

TRESPASSED (Legal campsite next door)